For healthy, natural colour, nothing beats blusher. However it tends to be overused. Powder Blusher is typically best for oily and combination skin. Cream is great for dry skin and liquid and gel are best for oily skin. For even better results, combine cream and powder together – it helps blusher to stay on longer and looks more luminous. Cream blusher is great for mature skin as it blends easily for a very natural look. Blush stains are ideal for well-moisturized skin but avoid on dry skin as they tend to dry very fast. Blending cream blushers with a powder blush can also look very effective and beautiful on the skin.
Choosing a Colour
Start by choosing a colour, using nature as your guide. Find a colour that matches your cheeks when they are flushed after exercise or from being out in the cold. Fair skin looks great in rose, olive in peach and dark skin in apricot or even red. A dusky pink blusher will warm up and tired-looking skin. Another trick is to find one that matches your skin colour.
For best results, the skin should be prepped and foundation applied carefully. Apply the blush onto the high apple of the cheekbones and softly blend backward, following the cheekbone and ending at the hairline. Use a professional full brush for applying powder blush, tapping off any excess. For extra contouring and a more chiselled look, a bronzed or darker colour can be used underneath.
Blusher should never go below the bottom of your nose or any closer in to the centre of your face than the iris of your eye. Apply a small amount of blush to your forehead – on the spot where the sun normally hits your face – if you look very pale. Applying blush near the eye can help give your eyes a sparkle.
Applying Gels and Creams
For a natural, healthy flush, keep the colour light and blended. Dab a dot of gel or cream on the apple of the cheeks only, using the middle finger, then blend with ring and middle fingers. The clean finger will pick up any excess.
Mila Kunis as Theodora in Oz The Great and Powerful
Make-up by Tracey Levy
This breakdown originally appeared in the tablet edition of Make-Up Artist magazine’s Issue 101
Make-up artist Tracey Levy worked with actress Mila Kunis to create a sultry witch with a classic beauty flair. “I wanted to keep Theodora as innocent as possible but at the same time create a bit of mystery,” Levy said. “Mila and I have worked together often, and we wanted Theodora to be very different from her other characters. The biggest departure from Mila—the real woman—was the red lip. I wanted Theodora to have an inner fire, and I brought that out in all of the color choices, from her eyes to her lips. Working on Oz was such a fantastic experience. Being able to work with such a group of talented artists was an experience of a lifetime!”
Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream Light
Primer: Hourglass Veil Mineral Primer Foundation: Giorgio Armani Lasting Silk UV Foundation in Sand and Tawny, mixed
Bobbi Brown Corrector in Light Peach
Make Up For Ever HD Microfinish Powder
Dior Bronze Original Tan Healthy Glow Bronzing Powder
Dior DiorBlush in Passion Fruit
Lorac Red Carpet Reveal palette: light shimmer-brown on the lid and dark brown to contour. Lancôme Color Design Sensational Effects Eye Shadow Smooth Hold in Backstage Pass blended into the outer crease.
Sue Devitt Eye Intensifier Pencil in Zaire on top and bottom (these products no longer available)
Chanel Crayon Sourcils Sculpting Eyebrow Pencil in Brun Naturel
Lancôme Hypnôse Drama in Excessive Black
Five Ardell Duralash Flare in Medium Black on each eye
The lips were filled in with Nars Cosmetics Lip Liner Pencil in Amazon; M.A.C. Lipstick in Dubonnet was applied on top.
Highlights / Countour
“On the tops of cheekbones I dabbed Dior Skinflash Radiance Boosting Makeup Primer, and for contour under the cheekbone I dusted a bit of the Make Up For Ever shadow [shade] from Sculpting Kit in Neutral Light.”
Contouring creates illusions on the face. It is the art of using shadow and highlight to sculpt, emphasize and accentuate features. A prime example of this is with cheekbones: highlighting above the bone and shadowing just below dramatically draws out the cheekbone.
To truly understand contouring, you need to understand the structure of the face. Symmetry is actually what makes the face ‘beautiful’ and more photogenic and so contouring can be used as a tool to create the illusion of balance and symmetry in the face. Even the most subtle form of contouring has the power to transform, creating a natural look without the need to add colour and ‘makeup’. Contouring can also be done on a far more obvious level, particularly in high fashion where it is a deliberate feature of the makeup.
Contouring can do the following:-
• Give more defined cheekbones
• Define the jawline/chin and minimize a ‘double’ chin
• Minimize a large forehead
• Create fuller lips
• Straighten and/or narrow a wider/larger nose
• Lift sagging eyes
• The key point to remember is that the dark colours draw back and make things appear smaller and light colours make features appear larger and closer
• Always use a matte shade when creating shadows. For achieving a natural contour look, this should be between two and three shades darker than the skin tone
• You can use a matte or shimmer product to highlight, although for more mature skins it is recommended that a matte shade is used, as shimmer products will accentuate fine lines and wrinkles
• The level of blending you do will determine how natural the contouring looks. Always check all angles of your face in a natural light before completion, to ensure there are no obvious streaks
Image from artist Kevyn Aucoin
May the Fourth be with you! (Poor helen!)